D.I.Y. House repair

Dear readers, we are writing these posts, because we want to write some D.I.Y. Brickwork, building retaining walls and mix your own cement, so that you can learn how to built something yourself, at least in theory. But in these blogs we are also trying to get you interested to become a tradesman. So, keep reading please. Anyhow, this blog we are going to talk about house repairs, since we have talked about the rest. 

You can also find this article at, http://oldman-lifeworks.blogspot.com, 

My other sites; http://frankmenchise.com,http://diybrickwork.com,http://manneedsgod.co.uk  

Anyhow, you can also see more at this addresses, DIY brickwork  

 and,  http://diybrickwork.com,  To see more click on, D.I.Y. house repairs

This is a typical old timber house in Brisbane that we call workers cottage, it is smaller version of the real Queens-lander house, just because it is smaller and more affordable. Anyhow, this could have been my house when it was built, but today it went through some alterations. 

D.I.Y. house repairs. 

Welcome to our article, D.I.Y. house repairs

Timber houses repairs or renovations

Dear readers, in our D.I.Y articles we have talked about, how to lay bricks in, DIY brickwork , and other articles about building, the last one, Bricklaying needs to be competitive. In this article, we want to talk about house repairs and renovations. So, it will be a mix up of trades including timber work.

You see, if you want to do any job on old houses, you need to know how to do a bit of this and a bit of that, so, you don’t need to be a carpenter to cut a few pieces of timber, drive a few nails, paint the house or build a wall.

Because, if the work is for your house, you do not need to be a tradesman, except for those trades that are forbidden from bylaws, since it is dangerous if you make mistakes; like electrical work or plumbing work. So, don’t do electrical work, except changing a light bulb, and plugging in any electrical devices; plumbing work you can change a tap washer valve, or unblock the kitchen sink drain, if you have the right tools, and that’s all. Other trades you can do it ourselves. 

Anyhow, let us talk about what we can do ourselves, if we own a timber house say in Queensland; we want to talk about Queensland houses, because that is the place I have been living for many years and I am writing from, therefore, I know what can be done here legally, in other parts of the world it can be different.

Now let us talk about the timber houses, the timber houses need a lot more maintenance than the brick and masonry buildings, because they need to be painted regularly, otherwise the exposed timber outside can rot, and then you need major repairs, but not everything affects these timber houses in a negative way, because they are easier to fix and to do alterations, compared to bricks and mortar buildings, so, let us talk about the latest work I have done, which was replacing some flooring on the veranda and then replace a set of old timber stairs with concrete treads. To replace the timber flooring was easy, because you need to pull the old rotten board out and replace them with new ones, to replace the stairs was a lot harder, because first I had to decide what I wanted to use, as the existing stairs were rotten beyond repair, but let us see what I did.     

 

Repair or replace stairs

I am writing this article now, because after fixing the patio floor I had to replace the front stairs where I am living now; I knew that the stairs were rotting away and soon or later we had to replace them, but I was trying to delay it as much as I could, because stairs are not easy to build and anyone that attempts to fix or replace them will find it hard to do unless he knows how to build them. But since I am a bricklayer, I knew what to do. 

But even though I knew what to do, because of the several set of brick stairs that I have built as a bricklayer, I did not like to do this job. However, one day I saw that the timber stairs were becoming dangerous, because the timber stringers were rotting away and some of the treads were just about to fall out or break if a heavy weight got on them, so, this job that I was trying to delay suddenly became urgent, because this steel brace that was holding them tight together suddenly broke. 

I did not want to replace this set of timber stairs with brick stairs, because brick stairs are very expensive, they take a lot of bricks, a lot of concrete and a long time to build, you see, brick stairs are build where a building is made of bricks. We can say that they are the most expensive to build using just simple building materials. Now at the same time I did not want to get somebody to make new timber stairs because today they are very expensive and the timber is not of that grade that lasts a long time, as it used to be.

Building the new stairs

Now the problem is that we need to replace all the steps. So, we want a new set of stairs that are not expensive, they must last a long time, they are almost maintenance free, so, how we can achieve that?

After thinking it over we decided to build a new set of stairs using concrete treads on a pair of galvanized steel stringers; you see these two types of material last a long time as they don’t rot and because of that they are mostly maintenance free; they are ready made and available if you shop around a bit in Brisbane QLD. Anyhow, I remember that a few years ago, I lot of suppliers had them in stock, today you must look for them.

Anyhow, it pays to look at direct supplies, because they have a larger stock to choose from, and can save money. I bought my concrete treads from a concrete product supplier; this is their link;

Crosby Concrete Products - Domestic Concrete Step Treads ..,

Anyhow, I went there and picked them up and saved some money. 

Buying galvanized steel stringers

Next, I bought a pair of galvanized steel stringers from Scott Metal, here I did not save a lot, but they were the closest with a reasonable price, so, I went there and picked them up.  

This is their web address; www.scottmetals.com.au/, Scott Metals, Woolloongabba Brisbane - Metal Manufacturers 

I visited the closest hardware to buy some bags of concrete, these bags of ready to mix concrete cost more than is used to cost, but this is what is readily available today; I bought also a couple of galvanized brackets that I could lay in the concrete to hold the hand rail firmly up and some screws. These are the main materials that I needed to do the job, as for the handrail, I was using the old handrail. All I had to do is to fix the handrail to the timber post that would be fixed to the galvanized brackets at the bottom of the stairs, any other adjustment would be done while working on site. So, let us replace this set of stairs. 

This is a typical pair of steel stringers, they come in many sizes, all you have to know is how many treads you need before you buy them. They are also available in hot dip galvanized, but they are more expensive, I believe they are worth the cost, and that is what I used to fix my steps. 

-------------------    

Describing our step-by-step procedure. 

Now that we have bought the materials that we need to replace this set of stairs, we are going to show you, how we did this job. 

First, you need to remove the old set of stairs; but before you do that you need to know if there is anything that you can save, in my case I decided that I could save the old handrail, if I could keep it attached to the house and so I did. To do that, I cut all connection between the handrail and the rest of the stairs that had to be demolished. After doing that, I started to remove the old timber treads one by one, you see you need to be careful here, because they are heavy, and it is easy to get hurt. Anyhow, you need to use a sledgehammer to knock the treads out of there housing, because some of them may still have some old nails holding them in place. After you have removed all the treads you remove the old timber strings, here again you need to be careful specially if they are long and heavy.

Next step you make sure that the part of the house that you are attaching the new stringers is solid and if it is not fix or replace whatever it is needed. Then take one of the steel stringers and lift in position to see if it fits and where it ends, because you may have to dig a hole in the ground if your stringers have an in-ground leg. To do that, you should get your stairs approximately in the right position, once you have done that, you need to work out the height of the top step; because the top step needs to be the same height of the rest of the steps, so, this is one of the critical measurements, the other one is the distance between the two stringers, as we will explain soon.

Now, mark the center of the stairs and sit the two stringers at the same distance, generally the top flange of the stringers would be level or one inch below the existing floor, which will be your last step. Temporary fix the two stringer with a small coach screw each at the distance that you have worked out, these screws are only temporary but they should be strong enough to hold the weight of the stringers easily; now if you are using concrete treads you virtually need to fit the top tread on the two stringer, you need to do this because the holes for the bolts of the concrete treads most time are not in line with the holes on the flange that holds the treads, then fit also your bottom tread on the stringers. If everything has been marked right the treads should be level both ways (level the full length and level across) and the top tread should be the same height as the rest of the stairs, if they don’t work out the first time make any adjustment necessary. Once you have achieved that you can fix the top flange properly with larger coach screws or bolts.

Now that we have fixed the top of the stairs to the existing building, we need to fix the bottom with bolts or concrete. So, let us assume that we have to concrete the two legs of the steel stringers; here we need to make sure that we have dug deep enough and there will be about 6 inches of concrete under the stringer leg and also that the holes we have dug allows about 4 inches of concrete around the legs. Here we need to say that if the bottom treads that you have placed at the beginning to get the right distance between the stringers is in the way, you need to change it one step higher, but keep it as close as possible at the bottom, just because the stringers might move and then you will not be able to fit the rest of the concrete treads, in fact, if it is possible and you can think of something that can temporary hold the weight of the entire set of stairs, then you may as well place all the treads on except the bottom one and then concrete, after concreting you can also fit the last tread and the job is done. 

The set of concrete stairs on galvanized steel stringer have been built, and I believe that they will last for 50 years maintenance free. I have also fixed the old hand rail, and it could last for 20 years.  

------------------------------------

This is all for this time. See you next time with our blog, house renovating.

----------------------

Block and brick laying is competitive

Dear readers, we are writing these posts, because we want to write some D.I.Y. Brickwork, building retaining walls and mix your own cement, so that you can learn how to built something yourself, at least in theory. But in these blogs we are also trying to get you interested to become a tradesman. So, keep reading please. Anyhow, this blog is more advanced, since we are talking about how to lay as many blocks as you can in one day. 

You can also find this article at, http://oldman-lifeworks.blogspot.com, 

My other sites; http://frankmenchise.com,http://diybrickwork.com,http://manneedsgod.co.uk  

Anyhow, you can also see more at this addresses, DIY brickwork  

 and,  http://diybrickwork.com,  To see more, Bricklaying is competitive

These cement block in Australia are called Besser blocks, they come in various sizes what is shown here is the 200 size, (also called eight inches) they are heavy and you need to lift them with both hands to lay them, so, it is hard work and you need to know what is the bast way to lay them.   

Block and bricklaying needs to be competitive 

Welcome to our article,  Bricklaying is competitive

Building workers need to be competitive;

Today because of the way the economy has been set up, if you want to succeed you need to be competitive, therefore, we must try to do things better and faster than other people. Most people have this inborn need to excel in whatever they do; and those who don’t, will become losers. For these reasons, we must try harder to be successful in life.

This need applies also to the building industry, because the building industry needs to be competitive, to a higher degree than other industries, so, it is important that we can build better and cheaper houses, because that is the only way that the buyers can afford them, and when they are sold, the builders can build another one to sell again.

As we have said, we know that whatever work we do, we must do it well and quickly, so that we can beat our competitors. So, the trade people that work in buildings, they are looking for ways to improve their output; you see, a tradesman needs to perform well, if he is going to be employed from a builder or contractor, because he needs to earn his wage and a bit more for his employer. So, if you are a bricklayer you must be able of laying a certain number of bricks or blocks per day, before you can be employed gainfully, but this can vary greatly depending on the job that needs to be done.

Now, in our previous building articles we have talked about brickwork, we have started with, DIY brickwork,  then we have written  Building a brick base, and  House brick base continues, so, we have talked how to lay bricks in these three articles; anyhow, these three articles were written to show people, how to lay bricks and how to go about building this brick base. We have also pointed out how to lay more bricks by using bricklayers’ profiles and other things, but the aim was mostly for people that were not tradesmen. But what we are going to write here is for more advanced, it is for tradesmen. 

To build a Besser block wall is harder for the bricklayer, because the blocks are heavy to lift and you need to lift each block with both hands, so, if you are not well organized, it is hard to lay many blocks in one day, but there are ways that can help you lay more blocks.   

Written for the block layer tradesman

Now, we are writing it this sub-article for the block-layer tradesmen, because we want the block-layer tradesmen to challenge themselves, to see if what we are claiming here can be done more than just a few times; of course, to do that, we are going to show you how you can lay more Besser blocks in one day than you did before, but you need to follow some rules that we have found helpful ourselves. In this example we are going to make it easy and we are going to talk only about straight forward work, otherwise it is going to be very hard to achieve and also to explain or measure what we want to do.

You know, for the bricklayer to lay blocks is even harder than laying bricks, because the blocks are heavy, each block needs to be lifted with both hands and carefully placed softly on the mortar bed that the block layer has laid, so, it is hard to lay many blocks in one day, but there are ways to make it a bit easier and a block layer could lay up to 250 in one day, when the job is easy enough to do; so, let us see how that can be achieved.

Now it is necessary to explain to the public, what happens in the building industry and how many bricks or blocks a tradesman is supposed to lay in one day. In the building industry the best tradesman will exaggerate a bit their capacity of laying so many bricks or blocks per day, so, we go around boasting that we are able to lay 1000 common bricks, or over 500 face bricks, or 200 eight inches Besser blocks in a single day.

Here we need to say that perhaps we have done it once or twice ourselves, and we want to boast about it, as if we can do it every day; but really that is hard to achieve, anyhow, if you have been able of laying down that many bricks or block even one time in your life, you are a good tradesman. But the reality is that on average, when we work on houses or small building at the end of a job the figure can be half of what we are boasting about. Now that we have explained that let us see how we can do better. 

--------------------------------

Laying 250 Besser blocks in one day:

Now, let us explain how a block-layer can lay up to 250 eight inches blocks in one day. For a block layer to be able of laying 250 blocks in one day, everything and every movement should be planed, so that there is no waste of time and energies. So, how we can achieve that, is explained here under. 

Now, to lay 250 Besser blocks in one day, it must be a straight forward job, let us say the walls are long and you are on a level platform, let us assume that we are working on a concrete slab, so, the place is level and there is plenty of room to move around, the walls have been marked where they should be, so, all you have to do is to lay these eight inches’ blocks. Now to do this job efficiently it required teamwork, so, if you are the block layer, you need to instruct your labor how you want to set up your mortar board and the blocks that you must lay.

Ideally you want the mortar boards to be set off the ground, so, the labor should put a couple of blocks on the slab and set the mortar board on them, they need to be set at least two feet from the wall and about 6 to 8 feet apart, you see here you want to give more room to the labor for the blocks; then instruct you labor that when he brings the blocks he should set the blocks between the mortar boards standing up, so that you don’t have to handle the blocks many times; this is how the labor should set everything up. Now let us talk about how you proceed to lay those 250 blocks, in one day.

-------------------------------- 

Because, I could not find a good photo, I have been forced to use this photo of a plaster, filling his hawk with his steel float. Anyhow what is important here is that, the bricklayer uses the plaster hawk and the trowel to fill up his hawk and then places the mortar from the hawk on the blocks, so, he does not need to bent, so many times. Hereunder is a typical bricklayer trowel that should be used.  

Describing the block layer procedure

The block layer first of all lays one block in each corner; and then he stretches his bricklayer line between these two blocks and lays the first course of blocks as usual making sure that all blocks are straight and have an even vertical joint, if everything is done the correct way, because the blocks have been made to cover 400 mm each in the wall, but their true length is 390 mm, if you measure the wall it should be an even number divisible by 100 mm and minus 10 mm. So if a wall is 10 metre long and you follow this rule strictly, you will end up with a wall 9.990 meters long, of course this could easily be adjusted from the block layer by making a few joints bigger or smaller as required.

The reason why, we have written about these lengths above, is that we want to point out to people that want to lay blocks themselves, how to work with blocks, so, let us explain it in another way: when we work with blocks it is a lot easier for us to follow the gauge, because they have been made to cover an even number when laid, so, a 200 series block is 390 mm long 190 mm wide and 190 mm high, but when laid in the wall because we have to add the mortar joint it covers 400 mm in length and 200 mm high, so, this is the gauge that needs to be kept, of course sometimes the length in the building do not work with the length of the blocks and this may cause a few problems; but whatever problems there are, it is advisable that you don’t try too hard to adjust it by making the joints too big or too small; you can try to make the bed and vertical joint smaller if possible and it is still going to be a good job done, but if you try to make them bigger it becomes unsightly.  

Anyhow, now we need to write how a tradesman block layer can lay 250 blocks in one day, in order to lay that many blocks he must set everything the right way from the start, so, let us describe how that can be achieved. We have mentioned above a wall ten meters long, but it can be any length, but not short, and you can use the following method. After laying the first course of blocks you build the two corners, say four blocks high and you set your bricklayer line on these corners. Now make sure that your labor has brought the blocks and placed them between the mortar boards standing up us we have described above, this will save you the bricklayer to lift the blocks in that position before you place the mortar on them for the vertical joints.

Okay, everything is ready to go, tell the labor that he can wet the boards and fill them with fresh mortar; now pick up a plaster hawk and your bricklayer trowel, fill up the hawk from the mortar board and start laying the mortar on the block ribs on both sides, you see the blocks ribs are narrow and you cannot use a full trowel of mortar straight from the board, well you can but it is going to be hard to drop the right amount of mortar on the ribs, so, by using the hawk you can pick up a small amount of mortar from it and place is straight on the block ribs, by doing this you will be able to lay your mortar bed a lot faster without bending to many times, so, you can save time and energy, it is up to you if you lay the mortar bed for the entire course, or only part of it, it may depend on the length of the wall and other factor, and a good bricklayer knows what to do just by observing a few things; now that you have laid the mortar bed place some mortar for the vertical joint on the blocks that are already standing up, then leave your hawk and trowel on the mortar board; you see you have to leave these tools there because you need both hands free to lift up the blocks, here you have a choice, you can lift just one block carefully lay it on the mortar without squashing it  and tap it into position with your trowel and when necessary even a hammer, now you can lift one block at a time and tap it into position, or a few blocks and then tap them into position, it is up to you whichever way you prefer.

Anyhow, what we have written above is how you can lay more blocks with less effort, in a day, it is worth to try, as we have tried it and it works. I hope that I have been able to explain this procedure clear enough for our readers, or any tradesman to follow.

That is all in this article. See you in our next article, D.I.Y. house repairs.

---------------------------------------

Cement and lime use in building, part three

Dear readers, we are writing these posts, because we want to write some D.I.Y. Brickwork, building retaining walls and mix your own cement, so that you can learn how to built something yourself, at least in theory. But in these blogs we are also trying to get you interested to become a tradesman. So, keep reading please. This blog is about D.I.Y  Mix your own cement. There are different ways how to mix cement and mortar and the main one are explained hereunder. 

You can also find this article at, http://oldman-lifeworks.blogspot.com, 

My other sites; http://frankmenchise.com,http://diybrickwork.com,http://manneedsgod.co.uk  

Anyhow, you can also see more at this addresses, DIY brickwork  

 and,  http://diybrickwork.com,  To see more, Mix your own cement 

A large Lime factory, it seems to me that there are many types of lime factories, so, we better let the expert explain that. 

Hydrated lime or cement are the two main ingredient to mix mortar with. In this part three we will be talking more about lime, even if this is an old way of how things were done. 

Welcome to our article, Mix your own cement, part three 

Cement and lime use in building and other things

In this article we will be talking about, Quick-Lime and slacked or hydrated lime. Now what we are writing here is a type of mixing mortar is the old ways, but sometimes even the old ways can be the only way to solve the problem. 

Today when we are on a building site and we talk about lime, we see a bag of white powder that we buy at the hardware store, we know that we can use this powder to replace some cement when we make mortar, but we don’t know much more than that, But lime is a lot more than just a white powder in a bag, because lime is one of those materials that has been and is being used a lot in many ways, its’ largest use is in making mortar for the master builders, but it has other uses also. So, let us talk about lime and where it comes from, so that we can understand things about lime and its several uses, of course, here we are mainly interested about its use in the building industry for making mortar etc. But there is more to say about lime, but before we do that let us check out how the Wikipedia explains quick lime etc. Where you can find a lot of information about lime if you care to know, click on the links.

Slaked or Hydrated Lime

----------------------

From the Wikipedia:

   Calcium oxide (CaO), commonly known as quicklime or burnt lime, is a widely usedchemical compound. It is a white, caustic, alkaline crystalline solid at room temperature. The broadly used term "lime" connotes calcium-containing inorganic materials, which include carbonates, oxides and hydroxides of calcium, silicon, magnesium, aluminium, and iron predominate, such as limestone. By contrast, "quicklime" specifically applies to a single chemical compound.

Quicklime is relatively inexpensive. Both it and a chemical derivative (calcium hydroxide) are important commodity chemicals.

   Calcium oxide is usually made by the thermal decomposition of materials such aslimestone, that contain calcium carbonate (CaCO₃; mineral calcite) in a lime kiln. This is accomplished by heating the material to above 825 °C (1,517 °F),^[5] a process calledcalcination or lime-burning, to liberate a molecule of carbon dioxide (CO₂); leaving quicklime. The quicklime is not stable and, when cooled, will spontaneously react with CO₂ from the air until, after enough time, it will be completely converted back to calcium carbonate.

Annual worldwide production of quicklime is around 283 million metric tons. China is by far the world's largest producer, with a total of around 170 million metric tons per year. The United States is the next largest, with around 20 million metric tons per year.^[6]

----------------------------------

As we have said, lime has been used for a very long time its use could be prehistoric, nobody seems to know when it was first used in making mortar and plaster for buildings and for other things, it was/is used even to disinfect places, when there is no much else to use, and I know that there is a lot more to say about the use of lime even today; up to the time when I was young it was used even to whitewash the walls in spring once a year, after a long winter all the walls were darkened with smoke, because if you wanted to keep warm you needed to light a fire in the chimney, so, the smoke of the fire would find the way into the rooms instead of going all up the chimney, I am pretty sure that even today this is the cheapest way of cleaning rustic building, as, it is one of the cheapest ways to make everything clean. But let us tell you it’s use as a building material to make mortar.

--------------------------------

From quick lime to hydrated lime  

From quick lime to slacked lime the old ways

Here we are talking about the late forties and early fifties, when I was young learning what was happening around me, so, hereunder we will be writing about what I saw and learned at that time about lime products and its uses. 

In the town where I come from in southern Italy; in the early fifties when there was a new building to be build or alterations to existing buildings to be done, one of the first things we would see was that the master builder would get ready a good supply of slacked lime, because this was one of the most important building materials he needed to do the job. In those times bagged hydrated lime and cement was very expensive, and bagged cement has a short life shelving span, as it reacts when humidity infiltrate the bags, therefore, most people or builders that needed to build used lime wherever they could; they would buy quick lime and get it process immediately on delivery themselves or with the help of the people that delivered it, of course, one needs to know how to do that, because it is dangerous while you are doing it. Now, let us see how it was done, and then we will tell you where else the lime was used.

Anyhow, the master builder before delivery had to build a square wall like a box, and in this large box he would process the quick-lime, because the quick lime cannot be held the way it is for any length of time, because it reacts to humidity and violently to water, so, it is necessary that it is turned into slacked lime as soon as possible after delivery.

 Okay, the cart or the lorry is on the way, so, the master builder gets his worker to start filling the pit with water, and when the quick lime arrives they start carefully throwing this burned lime stones into the pit in very small quantities, as soon as the quick lime comes in contact with the water it reacts and the water starts boiling, everybody is banned to approach the pit accept the people that must work there, and they ware some protective gear, because it is dangerous to handle quick-lime and around the pit, this process goes on until all the quick lime is thus treated, once they have done that it is left to cool down for a few days; after it has cooled down it is a lot less dangerous, but still you need to be careful near the lime pit. You see, the lime pit is now filled up with slacked lime, which looks like curd when you make cheese, but it is still dangerous and it can easily kill you if you fall in it, its contend must be handled with caution, but anyhow the slacked lime is now ready to be used, this is how the builders used to get ready the lime to make mortar. Now to use this lime to make mortar is different from using bagged hydrated lime or cement; so, hereunder we are going to tell you how to make mortar with slacked lime.

--------------------------------

How to make mortar with slacked lime 

This is how I know it was done in the old time, perhaps for thousands of years, anyhow, let me describe the procedure. Let us suppose that you have the slacked lime in the pit or in a container; you have brickies loam or fine sand, so, let us start:

Start by making a hip of your sand on a platform; now that you have done that, make a well in the center and place your slacked lime in it. The quantities in here may vary a lot more than when we use cement or hydrated bagged lime, because the slacked lime can be as liquid as thickened cream to as compact as feta cheese, so, you have to learn as you go about the quantities, but if you have mixed mortar before, you soon work it out yourself, or if there is any tradesman that is going to use the mortar he can tell you just by looking at the mortar being done, whether you need more lime or more sand and water etc.

Okay, now that you have the lime in the middle of the sand, with a Larry start pushing this devise up and down through the lime by adding a bit of water as needed and slowly mixing some sand with the lime; you need to do this until you have mixed the whole lot evenly. This is hard work but that is how it was done when there were no mixer and no bagged hydrated lime around.

Here we need to note that this mixing of slacked lime to mix mortar is completely different from mixing other mixture, because the slacked lime is already wet, and it is like a paste.

Now, let me talk about, lime use in farming.

-----------------------------------

Lime use in farming  

You know, there are lots of place where we can use lime, I only know some of them, so, let me say a few things about how we were using lime in our small family farm at the time when I was young, just the way I remember it:

We would use it like the builders use it when we had to repair or replace a few stone that were falling apart in the old stone building, so, instead of using clay like the first time, we would mix a small quantity of mortar using lime and sand; then, we used lime to whitewash the farm house, the stables, the pig stay, the chicken coop and sheds or other buildings near the farm house once a year in spring.

We could use it to disinfect stagnant water ponds that showed signs of vermin, or the water were too dirty, so, we would dilute some lime in water and then pour it in the water ponds, and next day the ponds would be clean, as the lime would kill the vermin and would make the water clear because all the dirt would sink to the bottom of the pond; we used this water to water the plants when the soil was becoming too dry for the garden plants to grow.

In the farms of those days lime was also used to spray vines and trees, there is one thing that always comes to my mind; it is when we were spraying the grape vines with a copper sulfate and lime, we would have two containers one with diluted copper sulfate and one with diluted lime, some people used to spray first with copper sulfate and then with lime, so that they would help each other to kill the mildew, but my grandma had worked a way how to avoid this double spraying and it worked thus;

In those times it was not like today and even the vine spraying pump was a devise that you would put on your back, and with a handle that you moved up and down you would spray your vines and trees as well; this devise could hold about three gallons of liquid, so, every now and then you needed to fill it up; as I have said we had two containers one holding diluted copper sulfate and one with diluted lime; (of course you had to know how much diluted you had to do your mixtures but that does not mutter here this time) anyhow, when the pump was/is empty you would go to these containers to fill it up: here is my grandma way to avoid to spray twice, when filling the pump, first of all you had to make sure that the mixture were well stirred, then you would put the copper sulfate in the pump and at the last minute you would add the lime, and immediately start to spray. This was my grandma way and it worked because the mixture would not have time to settle down and become stale. 

Anyhow, I think that this article is too long, and I have said enough about how to mix your own cement or mortar, about lime and lime use in farming, so, see you next time with our D.I.Y. articles, bricklaying is competitive.

-----------------------------------

Learn how to mix cement, part two

Dear readers, we are writing these posts, because we want to write some D.I.Y. Brickwork, building retaining walls and mix your own cement, so that you can learn how to built something yourself, at least in theory. But in these blogs we are also trying to get you interested to become a tradesman. So, keep reading please. This blog is about D.I.Y  Mix your own cement. There are different ways how to mix cement and the main one are explained hereunder. 

You can also find this article at, http://oldman-lifeworks.blogspot.com, 

My other sites; http://frankmenchise.com,http://diybrickwork.com,http://manneedsgod.co.uk  

Anyhow, you can also see more at this addresses, DIY brickwork  

 and,  http://diybrickwork.com,  To see more, Mix your own cement 

One typical concrete mixer, powered by an electric motor. These type of mixers are very helpful on site, you can mix almost anything with them, provided you have the right material and know how. 

Learn the art of mixing cement, part two

Learn to recognize and use the building materials when we mix cement; 

In our previous post, we have written what are the building materials, and we have explained how to mix concrete by hand, this procedure can be applied to mix mortar and plaster etc. We have also explained how you can recognize the raw building materials.

Having done that, now let us imagine that you need concrete, you live in the middle of nowhere and you have only a few tools, but you now a faraway place where you can go and buy Portland cement; you are not going to buy anything else at that place, because it is too far, it will be costly to bring it in, so, the rest of the concrete materials you are going to find near the river banks. I know it is like going back in time a hundred years ago, but there are parts of the world that are still that far back. Therefore, learning how to recognize the basic building materials for making concrete, and then mixing concrete by hand can still be useful today. So, we are writing these articles, hoping we can help any do it yourself small owner builders.

Now, we have to add that what we are writing here is how we have done these things, and we know they work, however, it is only our view and they work well in all minor jobs, but if you have large important jobs, you must consult the local experts.

Now let us see how we mix concrete with a mixer. 

--------------------------------------  

A builder wheelbarrow, is a must have on any building sites. Also shovels and buckets is a must have and other things as well.   
      

Mixing concrete with a mixer

Okay, let us make this clear, there may be several ways how to mix you concrete; you can mix it on the ground, as we have described above, you can mix concrete in a wheelbarrow, if you have a wheelbarrow with a good tray, or you can mix it with a mixer which is helpful to have. But what are the different procedures when you mix, in order to achieve the best result with the least amount of time and work:

The greatest difference for mixing concrete and also other cement materials is mainly this: when you mix by hand you can achieve the best result by mixing the materials with the cement before you add water, as this helps to make a more even mixture quicker: But when you use the mixer you don’t need to do that, in fact, you can have better and quicker result, by following this procedure hereunder:

Start the mixer and put in the mixer some water, approximately the proper amount to mix the whole batch, you know how much water to use once you have made a few batches.

Now before we proceed to mix, let us talk about the water amount. On building sites, it is near impossible to tell you how much water you need exactly, due to the fact that the materials you are using contains an unknown quantity of water, therefore, the quantity of water varies, you see, the wetter the materials are, the less water you need and vice versa if they are dry.  

Now, let us assume that because you are new at doing this job, you are using a dry small bucket to measure the quantities of the building materials; in this case you have gravel and river sand in separate heaps, you know that this concrete is going to be mixed 6 to 1, but overall this batch you are going to mix 8 small buckets of gravel four of river sand and two of Portland cement:

Now the quantities above is how the best and strongest cement can be achieved, with a minimum of Portland cement used; very likely these quantities are written in the specifications, if you have any specification written, and the ready mix people use those amounts and have a perfect concrete, because the concrete mixer will mix it well and as dry as possible. But by experience on building sites, we use a bit more river sand and a bit less gravel, as this makes it easier to work with overall.

Now let us go back to mix our concrete:  

So, after you have poured the water into the mixer, you put one single bucket of gravel and while the mixer turns put the two small bucket of cement into the mixer, the cement in the mixer will immediately mix in the water and the first bucket of gravel will make sure that it does not stick to the mixer, because it will cut though any lumps easily, now you add four buckets of river sand, and this again will mix very quickly and become like a thick cream, all you have to do next is to add the other seven bucket of gravel, once you have done that you only need to wait a little bit for the mixer to mix it properly and your concrete is ready. Now all you must do is to tip your concrete in a wheelbarrow and take it to the place you need to concrete.

This is the quickest and best way to mix concrete in a mixer, as I have done it for thousands of times, but I need to say that on building sites, where there is plenty of cement to mix and the workers have to try not to injury themselves, by lifting hundreds of bucket full of material all day long, they use to measure the materials by the shovelful, but you have to be an expert at doing that to get everything measured right. I hope this description of how to mix concrete is clear enough.

Before we leave this concrete discussions we want to add more information; you see, concrete in itself is very strong in compression, but is lacks strength under tension, so, to make concrete very strong and last a very long time you need to use steel in the concrete; here is a link that will help to understand some of these issues.

 How to Make Concrete Even Stronger: 6 Steps (with Pictures)

 

----------------------------- 

Mixing mortar, plaster, or cement topping.  

Now that we have described how to mix concrete by hand and by using a mixer, the same ways can be used to mix mortar and/or hard plaster or cement topping etc. So now, we do not need to explain step by step how to mix them, but we will describe only the different amount of things that are used; but try to remember that when you mix by hand, it is a lot easier to mix the dry materials first and then add water, but when you use the mixer it usually is better and quicker to start with the water first.

To mix mortar for the bricklayer;

Just by using brickies loam and Portland cement, this mixture by volume is most likely 4 part brickies loam to one part Portland cement, but it could vary from (3 to 1) to (6 to 1) the aim here is to give the bricklayers what is easy to work with, and at the same time you don’t want to make the mortar a lot stronger than the bricks when it dries, and you don’t want to make it too weak for the job you are doing, so, it makes sense to see what the bricklayer reckons is good enough for the job; sometimes when making mortar you can replace part of the Portland cement with hydrated lime, plus other things to make the mortar easy to work with.

Mortar for cement blocks

The mortar for cement block is usually three parts fine plaster sand and one-part cement, it is a bit different from the brickie’s loam, as it is thicker and stronger and very close to the block’s colors when dry.   

To mix cement plaster to plaster walls;

This mixture is usually 3 part plaster sand and 1 part Portland cement, in some countries where lime is easier to have than cement it can be made by using a mixture of lime and cement for the interior, we believe that there are a lot of old places that they have used lime only, the cement mixture is used wherever it is too wet.

Cement topping;

This mixture is usually 3 parts river sand to 1 part Portland cement; it can be used straight on the cement if it is still green, but when the cement is dry you need to make sure it is clean and rough for the cement to bond, you may have to use tools to indent the existing concrete, then you have to wet the cement and also you may need to use some cement bounding agent and/or paint to concrete with this cement glue called Weldbond or  Bondcrete or whatever and place the topping cement according to the instruction supplied, if these concrete glues are not available, you have to wet the concrete that you have to lay the topping on, then make some slur of water and cement and somehow work it in with a brush as if you paint the concrete, and before this starts drying lay your topping on it. 

These three mixtures plus the concrete are the main things that are required when we build with cement, of course, for those people that do not know how the different materials look like, is still hard to understand the hole procedure, but if they read a few times what we have said, they should have a fair idea of what we are talking about. Anyhow, I have described several things already, but I think that I need to describe how to mix mortar with lime only, as it was done in the old days and here I am not talking just hydrated lime that you can buy at the hardware store, but I am talking about quick-lime as it comes from the kiln and how we made slacked lime. 

So, see you in our next blog, lime use in building, part three. 

-----------------------------